Molly Malone in Bangkok

This pub just off busy Silom Road recently changed its name from the Irish X-change, to fall in with the new owners' outlets of the same name in Phuket and Pattaya.

The Constant changing of hands is no reflection on the ambiance of the place, because it's always been popular, and a recent interior refurbishment has wisely maintained the original character. They've ripped out the centerpiece spiral staircase, which, while good to look at, was always an obstruction, and installed a new focal point – a larger and handsome curved bar that runs half the length of the downstairs room. The mezzanine balcony edge has also been reshaped to mirror the bar.

As Irish theme pubs go, Molly's isn't overly kitschy, displaying little tat aside from posters advertising the likes of Shamrock whiskey and Gallaghers honeydew tobacco - neither of which, surprisingly, is available behind the bar. Rather, it's a smart and homey watering hole with dark wood waxed floors, a good choice of party-sized and smaller tables and cute reproduction lampshades that hint more at a Paris flea market than rustic Ireland.

There's Guinness and Kilkenny on tap, Natch and Strongbow cider, plus local beers, including beer Laos. Happy hours, from 4pm to 7pm through the week, have local beers at 75 Baht (US$2.1) and buy-one-get-one cocktails from 6pm to 8pm.

They've kept the food menu simple with the substantial, non-prize-winning fare you get in pubs all over the world - pork chops (which are pretty good), burgers, fish 'n' chips and Sunday roast carvery at a good value. For variety, there's a Thai section at the end of the menu with spicy salads, curries and noodles starting from 130 Baht.