Visiting Angkor Wat in Cambodia

In 1861, a French botanist searching for orchids in the jungles of Cambodia stumbled on the monumental temple of Angkor Wat, one of the world's greatest gifts from a lost civilization. In fact, Angkor Wat is one of more than 100 temple complexes hidden in 320 square kilometers of dense rainforest.

Old Cambodia hands speak of a time, little more than a decade ago, when Angkor's village, Siem Reap, had a single luxury hotel. Now the road from town to the World Heritage Angkor Archaeological Park is littered with five-star hotels, for it's now one of travel's hottest destinations.

A day is not nearly long enough to explore the park. Plan at least three to soak up the legacy of the Khmer empire, which prospered from the ninth to the 15th centuries. A three-day ticket allows time to visit outlying sites, far from the sometimes madding crowd. It also means you can visit the temple of Angkor Wat more than once, at dawn, when mist rises off the still waters of the moat, and in the glorious golden light of sunset.

Angkor Wat itself has five imposing towers and many galleries, the most impressive of which houses remarkably detailed scenes in bas relief, depicting both mythological and historical events.

Among the superb carvings and statues, look for sinuous, bare-breasted dancers known as apsara; naga, a mythical serpent with many heads; and singha, a stylized lion.

Another temple, Preah Kahn, which often lies silent but for the chatter of tiny squirrels, is almost consumed by the voracious jungle. Also renowned for its beautifully preserved carvings is the tranquil 10th-century "Citadel of the Women", Banteay Srei, dedicated to the Hindu god, Shiva. Another must-see is the former Buddhist monastery of Ta Prohm, where the formidable roots of silk cotton trees twine like massive serpents around the ancient stones. Lara Croft fans may recognize it from the Tomb Raider movies, whereas the Bayon is famous for the giant face sculptures adorning its 37 towers.

One of the oldest temples, Lolei, lies amid paddy fields. It is notable for its Sanskrit inscriptions and the school for monks, formerly used as an administrative center by the murderous when it's cooler, a climb up the steep hill, Phnom Bakheng, rewards visitors with a panoramic view of the park and distant Angkor Wat, its outline softly blurred by the evening haze.